Rendezspew

If you like kneebars, then you'll love this route. Otherwise, stay away! I think this would be a three-star route without the grueling kneebar crux . . . but I don't really like kneebars.

Rendezspew is one route left of

Vitamin H

and has fixed chain draws on all but the first bolt. It climbs through the left edge of the broken-out patch where the huge shield of rock cut loose before moving up into a very overhanging crack.

Thuggy climbing down low and in the crack section lead to the "TV set," an enormous block behind which you can double-kneebar no-hands rest. The crux involves scumming your right knee up the block as you paw at imaginary holds. After this unpleasantness, the route is pure fun -- steep, pumpy and varied on very overhanging rock. Many people elect to skip the difficult last clip on redpoint, risking a long but clean fall into space.

A token bit of glue "holds" the TV set on. Despite its dangerous appearance, the block is actually very solid (at least for the time being) and doesn't so much as vibrate when you bang on it.

1 or 2 draws. The rest is chains.