The Charmed Life

The Charmed Life

is a long pitch of desert slab. Like its neighbouring routes, it's a real calf-burner. It was bolted ground-up so the spacing may be considered a little spicy for some. Not dangerous at all, but perhaps just exciting enough to make it memorable.

Route:

Start up a shallow left-facing crescent which soon fizzles out, leaving you with a seemingly endless friction romp. Slightly crispy stone at the 3rd bolt gradually gives way to a smooth varnished slab with very few features. At the 8th bolt, surmount the undercut basalt dike and finish on an exfoliating slab.

Descent:

Rappel from the two-bolt ring anchor. Read below:

With one 60m rope you will need to stop halfway down at the top-anchor for

So Rebel

(climber's left).

With one 70m rope you can make it to the ground but you must trend climber's left to land on higher ground. -

knot your ends!!!

With two ropes you will easily make it all the way down.

To lower off and thus leave a toprope setup, keep the following things in mind:

You need a 70m rope for this.

Construct your anchor with a >20-foot length of cordelette.

Have the belayer scramble a little ways up and left along the base of the wall to a higher position.

Knot the end for safety!

See photos. This route is second-from-the-left on the far left side of the wall. Look for the first bolt in a shallow, left-facing crescent.

10 bolts + 2-bolt ring anchor