Alpha Chino's Chinos

One of the best 5.12s at The North Gym, this would be a 4-star classic if not for two no-hands stances that interrupt the continuity of the line. The rock is impeccable, cream stone littered with pockets and edges. The movement is excellent, with a dynamic, sequential crux passing a 2-finger pocket on the gently overhanging panel at mid-height.

Stick clip the first bolt, then lieback easily up jutting flakes to reach a big ledge. Incut, fist-deep pockets up a yellow and brown pillar lead to an intimidating leaning wall of perfect stone. Crank over this obstacle, fighting a building pump as the angle lessens. One last tricky bit leads over the final bulge to the anchor.

This lone route is located roughly equidistant between the Arcade and the Tropical Wall.

7B to 2BA. A stick clip is recommended.