Realm of the Fifth Class Climber

Realm of the Fifth Class Climber is one of the classic routes at Millbrook. It is generally reputed to be on the easier side of 5.9. I thought the crux second pitch had some solid 5.9 on it, but only for a few moves. The climb is highly worthwhile. Pitch one is good. Pitch two is excellent. Pitch three is adventurous and requires careful attention to avoid loose rock.

Pitch 1 (5.7), maybe 50-60 feet? Climb up a shallow right-facing corner to an alcove, where the corner increases in size and leans out over your head to the right. Belay in the alcove, or continue; the first two pitches can be easily combined. This first pitch is pleasant and mellow, and the rock isn't bad.

Pitch 2 (5.9), maybe 60-70 feet. The money pitch. Climb up the obvious corner above you. The crux comes quickly off the belay as you move up the leaning corner and escape to the right out from under what is effectively a ceiling. Once you move right and up on some thin moves, continue more easily up the corner to an obvious ledge. This is a very good pitch, with excellent rock and gear throughout.

Pitch 3 (5.9), again 60-70 feet. Make an awkward move to get up on a sloping shelf above the belay ledge (crux). Continue climbing up and left, easily skirting two roofs, and then up a left-facing corner to the top of the cliff. When I did this pitch (in 2014), I moved left to avoid the final corner because there was a large hornet's nest near the top-out. I climbed the right-facing corner twenty feet to the left of the regular top-out. This pitch is of lesser quality than the other two. After the initial move, the climbing is casual, but look out for some very loose plates on the face.

You can rap in from where the trail meets the top of Millbrook (above Westward Ha!) and then walk along the "Death Ledge" to the south (climber's left). In places the ledge gets sloping and loose, so be careful. You can also explore the top of the cliff and find a suitable place from which to rap directly to the route. As you rap in you can look up to spot a distinctive triangular roof which sits above the start to Realm (see beta photo).

Good gear throughout.