- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a sustained route up beautiful features; Four stacked pitches.
Gear tiny to #3 Camalot. Slings. A single set of small offset cams is helpful.
P1: 10a*** Gear to #3 Camalot. 1 bolt. Slings.
Wander up face directly below the third right facing corner, just right of the tiny lone pine. Climb the right facing corner towards the roof. After the single bolt, traverse right under the roof, then continue up and right to the anchors. Manage rope drag. 40m.
Note: There was an old stopper low in the corner that appeared to be bail gear.
P2: 10a*** Gear to #2 Camalot.
From the anchor, move straight up past overlaps to a scraggly bush and the roof. Make the improbable gear protected moves directly through the roof and up to the shared anchor with Dentugripped. 25m.
P3: 11a *** Gear to #2 Camalot. 4 bolts.
From the midway ledge, head up the thin slab (11a) protected by three bolts. Trend left up the discontinuous seams, then step back right. A single bolt protects the exciting lie back moves (10b) high on the pitch. Belay at the anchors at the base of the beautiful right facing corner that forms the left side of The Attic. 30m.
P4: 10a ***Gear to #3 Camalot.
Jam, lie back and stem up the striking right facing corner. Move past the bulge, then head up and left to a two bolt anchor. 25m. Lower off.
Note: There is a challenging top rope between the fourth pitches of Tramp Stamp Granny and Boomin’ Granny.
Location
This fine route begins in the Four Corners Area. Look for the right facing corner just right of a small pine tree.
Protection
Gear tiny to #3 Camalot. Slings. A single set of small offset cams is helpful.