Persistent Vegetative State

On the Little Eiger there is a distinctive open book that divides the face in half. I have wondered for years why such an obvious line had never been bolted. When I arrived near the top of the corner, I was surprised to discover some old rusty coldshut anchors. Someone inteneded to put the route up in the early eighties but never did, perhaps Tod Anderson? I drilled new anchors for "

The Green Zone

" nearby and after that climb was in, took a TR lap up the corner and found it to be yet another CC classic. The bottom was dirty and loose, so I cleaned it (still a bit dirty).

Start on the outside of a small arete right of "

The Green Zone

", follow five bolts to the base of the corner, fire up the corner past 9 clips to

The Green Zone anchors

. PVS a fun sustained pitch!

This climb is difficult to clean QDs from, as it drifts left for 20' in 95' (

now 115' with the new anchors

) of climbing. There is a chain and steel biner on bolt 4 to help prevent a huge and dangerous swing while cleaning. Please be careful taking your QDs off this route! You need a 70-meter rope but can get away with a 60m with complications (rap from bolt 4).

15 quickdraws plus something for the 2 bolt, vertically-oriented anchors.