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Peak Mountain 3

Old Scratch

FA Craig Lewis
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A great line that breaches the steepest part of the buttress.

Begin with a difficult boulder problem involving a couple of long moves between a blocky jug and a few sculpted crimpers. Cruiser terrain leads to a ledge rest at the third bolt. Thuggy climbing through the black rock of the roof ends with a cruxy lip encounter to establish on the face.

Rest up while you stare down a perplexingly blank section. After unlocking some "a-ha!" beta, finagle your way to your second no-hands rest of the route. Keep your guard up, however; a final crux awaits on the dirty slab just before the anchors, involving a balancey sequence on sloping pockets.

Varied, cool climbing up a proud feature.

Location

Start just right of the prominent crack that cleaves the buttress.

Protection

Bolts, nylon permas on the roof bolts. Two-bolt anchor.