Southwest Couloir

Contour East for several hundred feet before turning up to the high, flat plateau West and slightly south of the summit. Take care not to traverse too far East. The couloir is mostly cl. 2, marked by a LARGE boulder near the top. Pass this on the right (cl. 4) and the traverse out left (cl. 3-4) to easier slopes above.

Once the plateau is reached, climb the easy slopes to the Northeast to reach the small West Ridge of the first large tower south of the true summit. Some easy scrambling is necessary to cross this ridge to the north and reach the couloir that leads East to the large main notch just south of the summit.

From the large main notch, descend an easy 100 ft down the East side to intersect the East Face route for the remainder of the ascent to the summit.

Although this route isn't terribly interesting, it provides some FANTASTIC views of the East Ridge and North Faces of the Grand Teton. Ascending or descending this route combined with the East Face makes for a nice Tour de Teewinot loop from the trailhead.

This route is usually approached from Amphitheater Lake, but may also be accessed by the Black Dike Traverse (or descended after an ascent of the East Face of Mount Teewinot). Basically, find your way to the far north (right) end of the Teton Glacier Moraine. Climb out over the north edge of the moraine where it abuts against the walls of Mount Owen.

Technique. Basic alpine rack.