- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a really nice crack which is on the west facing buttress a little further uphill from "Into The Fire" and "Kung Pao Chicken". It would be a 3-star climb if it was cleaner. Scramble onto some small ledges from the right and build a belay anchor at the bottom of the crack (bring some extra .75" cams for the belay). Climb straight up the crack, with a crux in the upper section. Near the end of the crack, traverse left to a bolted anchor on a small ledge.
I think an 80m rope will just barely make it back down. We had a 70m but I was able to make it to a ledge system where I could scramble off to climber's right on some 4th class terrain.
Also bring a bolt kit if you have one. The anchor is a couple 1/4" bolts with old tat.
Protection
Pro from micro to 3" with doubles from .25" - 1.75". And I would recommend bringing all the .75" cams (purple C4s and orange TCUs) that you have, since it's nice to put a couple in the anchor for your belayer at the bottom, and that's also a very useful size to have on the climb. And some small offset cams would probably be useful in the section leading up to the crux.
Routes in N. Sentinel Creek Area
- 22The Sceptor5.11aTrad