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Peak Mountain 3

Charon's Boat

FA T. Bubb, J. Meir, 10/2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is both similar to and sufficiently nearby '

Bridge From the Underworld

' to have been mistaken for it, initially, but only shares a few feet of climbing where they cross.

This route has occasional protection but could result in a pretty bad fall if a piece pulled or the fall happened at the wrong time. Double ropes would certainly make the belay easier, given that the route starts right and the belayer is to the left of the ledge. Toproping is the most easy and obvious solution to this problem.

To do this route, head up the first few feel to the ledge at the start of '

Bridge From the Underworld

,' going left (behind) the small pine tree and traversing to the right side of the ledge. Find a good sidepull in a seam to the right of the ledge, pull up onto a right foot hold, and establish a stance. A few Aliens (green, yellow) can go in to protect this with long slings. Make a few more insecure moves up to an undercling at a small roof-like feature, get in some more protection (green Camalot + another Alien + long sling), and start heading up and left on small holds and smears to the underside of a small arch, continuing left under that feature with no protection. The rock here felt solid and high-friction.

At the end of the small arch, you intersect and cross left through '

Bridge From the Underworld

, climbing a few feet of it and placing another piece before stepping left into the thin crack to the left of the right-facing, shallow corner of that route.

Small to medium stoppers and small cams can protect the thin crack until it runs out, becoming a flaring seam. Here you find a few good holds, and head up and left onto the arete and around it, onto some pinches and incuts above good horns of granite, heading up and left with not much gear for a few solid moves. Eventually you arrive where

Bloodletting

and '

Bridge From the Underworld

' merge at the 2-bolt anchor.

Location

This route starts over the creek at the far right side of the ledge first accessed from the initial crack of '

Bridge From the Underworld

.' Head up the initial crack at the right end of that ledge, and then trend left to cross

BFTU

just below the upper crack, continuing left into an independent crack and arete system.  See beta photo attached.

Protection

A rack from tiny to 2.5" cams with some small to medium stoppers for the upper crack and some long slings to help the drag reasonable. Or else it can be TR'd from a few slings on the bolt and ring anchors as for '

Bloodletting

' and '

Bridge From the Underworld

.'