Big Time

All belays are bolted. Well protected throughout with a good amount of bolts protecting cruxy/face sections. 70/30 crack/face. Pretty friendly and maybe fluffy climbing overall

Sun - In the summer, the route is in full sun and can be hot until about noon or so. A latish start is fine. It hardly receives any sun as fall moves in. Though a breeze can make things chilly and t-storms are always possible. Basically, alpine environment up there.

P0 - 4th - Head up the main gully on the left side of the Watchtower a ways and then cut right on some bushy ledges to gain a stance that has a bolt anchor.

P1 - 5.8 - Head straight up some corners and dirty ledges with a few bolts to guide the way/keep it safe. Worst pitch on the route, but you will shortly forget about it. Belay on top of a flake or keep going

P2 - 5.10b - Go slightly down and back left, clip a bolt, then make a crack switch. Head over a small roof with a hand crack and then party up some great finger cracks. Belay on nice ledge. Highly recommended to link P1 and 2 (65m link)

P3 - 5.11a - “not on my watch” - Take either the layback flake straight up, or jam a finger crack out left. They eventually merge and thin (crux). Then some cool varied terrain takes you to a stance, clip a bolt out right and make a wild traverse up to the “judgment day flakes.” Use caution. Traverse past some bolts to a hanging belay.

P4 - 5.10c - An awkward move off the belay leads into steep and sweet hands. With long legs you can stem some too for kicks. Using a crack on the left to protect, you can ration your hand size gear. Jam away through a roof and up to a great ledge.

P5 - 5.11a - You may notice some bolts up and right, these are from the Leversee/Smith attempt. Instead, head up and left on ledgy terrain. You can either layback the obvious, right-facing, curving crack or face climb to the left. At the top of the flake, make a balncey traverse out right, bolt protected. Head up a cool juggy flake until arriving at a finale of bolt protected liebakcing. End at a nice stance. Need a single rack at most.

P6 - 5.12a - Pull a tricky move off the belay and eventually traverse left into the obvious right facing corner. Head up this until it turns into a roof and you can undercling out right. A few more tough moves leads to a hanging belay. Mostly bolts but bring a couple cams from .3-1

P7 - 5.11d - Launch up the sweet and exposed crack/seam all the way until it dead-ends, clip a bolt, and make a tough crack switch to the left. 5.10 terrain takes you to an anchor. Lots of gear up to #1 and a couple bolts. Highly recommended/obvious to link with the next one.

P8 - 5.10a - Keep heading up the finger cracks to a great ledge. Short pitch.

P9 - 5.11d - the “thousand yard stare” - Go straight right onto the slab and blast off into tokopah valley. 4 bolts lead to a crack system. This will then steepen and curve and become an overhanging rail. Traverse left past 3 bolts and perform a burly mantle. A short finger crack will end at an amazing ledge. Mostly bolts and a couple finger-hand size

P10 - 5.11b - Head up the left side of the giant flake. At its top say thank god you don’t have to climb the overhanging ow above and instead clip a bolt out left. Traverse under the roof until you get to a finger crack. Crank over this to a stance and then pull another, this time hand-sized, roof. Two bolts then lead up and left into a splitter finger-sized corner. Pull a roof at its end and some easier terrain leads to the top. Runner this pitch well or break it up.

doubles from purple metolious to #2, one #3 optional.