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Shake Your Mungy Maker!
Description
Starts in the narrow stone corridor located to the left of Mungy Horse and an independent spire that might be Dromedary (more research needed to confirm the Dromedary part). Locate a thin, delicate-looking flake in the middle of the right-hand wall and stem between the two formations.
Plug in large to medium-sized nuts and smaller cams behind the flake. Be careful! Extend your runners and be mindful of angle of fall that your gear might experience. The flake is solid, and the climbing on it is fun, but one should always use caution when placing gear behind a flake.
Climb to the top of the flake, but don't stand on top of it, there is not enough room for your feet. Instead, try grabbing the top of the flake on good, deep holds and boogie your feet to the right. Reach up for hidden crimps and make a strange high step move to a bolt. Clip the bolt with a short draw and boogie to the right to a bomber ledge with a horizontal that will suck up a #2 or #3 camalot -when stuck in vertically- and extend your runner to a full shoulder length. Stand up tall and clip a bolt that protects a section of slick slab with small innocuous holds.
Gain another horizontal crack that has just enough of a tiny slit to slip in a ballnut or a nest of teenie-tiny nuts. Take a deep breath, this is your last piece of pro. Navigate a swamp of needy nubbins and good crimpy holds that get bigger as the angle backs off.
The route has a strange pre-summit formation that can be avoided by heading left, take a rest in the gizmodic, grassy gully and then climb a ladder of hulking chicken head holds to the true summit. Sling the rather ridiculously large horny formation at the summit and belay whoever else wants to join you on top. Bask in the glory of a fabulous, porno-ramic view and repel from the anchors of Honk If Your Mungy.
Location
Locate the narrow corridor to the left of Mungy Horse. HINT! Mungy Horse is the only route on this fabulous formation described in the New Testament of Busse and Burr. Don't bother trying to find us in Touch the Sky.
Protection
A rack of nuts with an emphasis on bigger nuts for the flake and micronuts for the seam. A rack of cams from 0.5 to 3. Long slings and sport draws. The climb has two bolts. Protection is overly abundant during the first half of the climb with a true Needles style run out to the summit.
Routes in MungeSkinLand
- 3Shake Your Mungy Maker!5.7+Trad