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MapDescription
Start this crack with a bit of a corner on a flake, bypassing just about all of the hand-size portion of the crack. Climb the widening splitter to its end, then trend towards the anchor atop Heart of Darkness on face and arete.
The smoothness of the crack, the nice sharp edge (for use once it gets wider) and the variety of climbing on such short a climb make this an overlooked semiclassic.
Rated 5.10b in the Vogel guide for some reason.
Location
The obvious widening splitter crack to the right of
Heart of Darkness
.
Protection
A single set of cams from hand size to as large as you care to carry, and a sling for horn that is the top of the crack.
The face/arete section has no bolts - heads up.
Anchor: bolts with chains atop Heart of Darkness
Routes in Conrad Rock - Heart of Darkness Corridor
- 3The Jungle (aka Apocalypse Now)5.9Trad