- Edit (TBD)
Description
Such a unique gem for the Hills! Splitter fingers and hands out a steep, sustained headwall on the 2nd pitch. The 1st pitch alone is amazing and engaging. No doubt this is a classic, though it might not see much traffic due to the long hike. Possible to see someone climbing the headwall from the parking lot!
Pitch 1; 5.10+ 100', Climb right facing corner with orange lichen streak. Right below large flared chimney, traverse right across face to splitter .75 crack. Mantel, then place #6 in flake out left. Make a few face moves and transition into OW/flake. Run it to the bolted anchors on easier terrain.
Pitch 2; 5.11 80', Work through face to gain the beginning of the crack. Couple cruxy moves down low leads to super stellar awesomeness. Enduro fingers and hands followed by more hands out the roof/chimney. Build your own anchor.
The #6 is pretty necessary for the first pitch. Though it is possible to scramble up the backside and rap in, if you just want to do the 2nd pitch. Needles Style Rappel brings you straight down to the 1st pitch anchors.
Location
This is the most colorful chunk of rock on the hilltop. Look for the bright yellow column that overhangs to the NW. Route begins directly below that. NSR from summit to bolted anchors. One 60m rope makes it.
Protection
Double rack; BD .5-#3 one #6 few smaller cams nuts