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Peak Mountain 3

Spring Fever

FA Les Ellison & Brian Smoot, 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1 Begins on Lunch ledge, 40' left of the S Direct. Stem up grooves for 20'. Traverse right to a shallow crack in a right facing corner. Climb straight up (poor pro) to a low angle slab below a wide roof. Belay at the left end of this roof by a bunch of chickenheads about 10 feet ABOVE the slab at 2 bolts (5.9 R/X not obvious). This dangerous pitch can be avoided by climbing the first pitch of the S direct and traversing left across the easy slab to the belay (5.7).

Pitch 2: Follow the short crack above, then slab up and right along a ramp to a steep section. The airy belay is 20' higher (5.10). The first bolt on this pitch was added after the first ascent.

Pitch 3: Move up & right to a beautiful flake, similar to the "Zion Curtain" in Bells. At the end of the flake move back left and up to a bolted belay - great pitch! (5.10a).

Pitch 4: Ascend the slab above to the chimney breaking the headwall above to the top (5.8+).

This route has been recently re-bolted.

Location

Starts on Lunch Ledge, left of the S Direct.

Protection

Standard traditional rack. If you climb the first pitch you may want to bring a few large copperheads!