Open Jaw

Worthwhile moves at the difficulty grade, despite a dirty section.

Start about 12 feet above two large trees, stepping onto a ledge 8 to 14 inches above the base of the SE-facing wall which forms the right side of the arete which is just right of the crack - (or if that feels too difficult, find a place to step onto that wall higher up the slope). Work diagonally up the face to a ledge, then continue diagonal right, passing just right of a amall tree (without using any holds from the gully of the route Right Nostril) -- up to just left of the notch at the left end of the roof in the left side of the Nose. Step Right across the notch onto the slab above the roof, and trend right up that to its top.

First crux is the first couple of moves diagonaling up from the starting ledge. Seoond crux is just above a ledge after passing by the small tree - (if that feels too hard, can go around it right using the gully).

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

There are three parallel-running ridges or aretes below left from the roof in the left side of the Nose -- left to right: 1) the arete which forms the right (E) edge of the Dragon right-half face. 2) about five feet to the right of the first arete, separated by an up+down crack, from which a sort of pillar emergse high along its left side. The crest of this arete is a bit lowera bit lower than the first, and its bottom end is higher up the slope than that of the first arete. 3) a much smaller arete separated by a grass dirt gully. The crest of this arete is much lower, and its bottom end is much higher up the sloep than the second arete.

This route starts on the 4-foot-high SE-facing wall which forms the right (East) side of the 2nd arete. This wall rises up the slope toward the roof in the left side of the Nose.

--> See on this routes Photo

--> or on this routes Photo

To set up Top-Rope, see Description of The Nose area. Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.