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Peak Mountain 3

Zozobra

FA Tom Rangitsch, 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A long journey with variable movement and 4 distinct cruxes.  It starts in an incipient crack for the first 4 bolts.  The initial crux is at bolt 4 where the seam pinches down and you have to use some non positive pockets to connect back to the crack.  Next cruise up to a good rest with your hands on a good ledge, clipping bolts five and six en route.  The hardest part of the route is the next 3 bolts, with sustained long moves on pockets that keep getting smaller.  After this there is another good rest before tackling a bulge on crimps and an undercling pocket, the third crux.  One more rest gets you ready for the slopey arete that guards the anchors.  Quality climbing but the rock could be a little more solid.

Location

Center of the wall, look for a left facing crack that starts at bolt 2 and continues up to bolt six.

Protection

13 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor with rap rings