- Edit (TBD)
Description
A fun adventure offering blocky corner or arete moves for about 60' to rap anchors that can take you down the route or off the backside. Also designed to be a trainer for beginning multi-pitch teams with a belay station after the first very short pitch.
Pitch 1 is about 20 ft past 2 bolts (center then right side) with top-out onto a shelf. Be very careful and head to the right when topping out as the rocks to the left of the exit gap are just stacked and not solid by any stretch of the imagination. One bolt above head height on right and creative trad anchoring provide a chance to practice belaying the second and gear management. Or, push on to the corner where 2 bolts can serve as the anchor for brining up the second. One can walk off to the left from this point, or start the 2nd pitch corner itself.
Pitch 2: 5 bolts to a rap anchor that pulls clean to the front or back side. Some committing 5.7ish moves allow entrance to the corner, then either harder moves keeping left in the corner or easier arete moves on the right get you to the top. Both offer interesting moves, some committing so evaluate holds before committing full weight. At the crux, one can find easier climbing on the arete on the right. However, the arete is highly cracked rock so evaluate holds and force directions especially after winter melt/freeze cycles.
Location
Start at the triangular face just to the left of Not Quite as Loose as it Looks. Can be a TR also. Anchor can be accessed from the back side, but some boldness and judgement of questionable holds is required for the moves to get there. The anchor can also be accessed by climbing up from the bolts for Not as Loose as it Looks, which has a much easier scramble from the back.
Protection
Bolts. Some trad placements could be possible but watch out that nuts' or cams' mechanical advantage doesn't dislodge fractured rocks.
Routes in Millcreek Monster
- 2Henry's Corner5.7Sport · Tr