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Peak Mountain 3

Join The Party

FA Tony Bubb and Jerry Bargo, 6/16/07.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A good route with a great crux. Start by facing the wall at the base of the tree & sneak your way into the corner past the small Mountain Maple Tree, then get some gear. Head up, then up and right on good cracks to reach a steep flake where you can jam a 1.5-2" crack and pinch the flake to pass a steep crux. before continuing up a crack system. After 70', you will come to a bulge. You can place a few cams under it and go right (harder) or left (easier, 3" gear) and up to a small ledge at 85' On the right of this ledge there is a medium-sized pine tree around to the right of you with a sling. If you need more gear- clip that with a runner. This is not the top. Instead, climb on past the ledge (second crux) on some really nice quartz holds and up a little further to another ledge with 2 bolts and rap anchors.

Rap 98' to the ground on a 60m rope.

Note: Ron Olsen placed the 2-bolt anchor up top of this at my request, as the rock above is loose or poor in some places and the retreat from the tree skips some nice climbing.

From the top of Join The Party, you can climb up a bit left of the anchor and traverse right on a ledge past two dead pine trees to a 2-bolt anchor. From here, you can continue up

Fields of Gold

or

Workingman's Blues

. See ?beta photo?.

Location

From the approach to the main wall of Tonnere Tower, keep and eye to the right before you go up and left along the wall's base. You will see a faint trail that goes off right. Head right to the wall. A large pine tree grows a few meters out and right of the base of the wall. The massive roots of the pine form a flat shelf of root and soil as a belay. Just left of you, a crack splits a left-facing, left-leaning ramp from the main wall. The climb starts up this tiny slab and corner to access a very protectable crack and flake system that goes on for ~100 feet. The cracks are discontinuous in spots, so expect to go left or right a little here and there.

Route #15 in the ?beta photo? [apparently deleted by its submitter].

Protection

A standard rack will do. Beginner leaders might take a double set of cams to prevent placing a certain size (hands to thin hands) and then being out of gear later.