Smells Like Chemo

Begin with a short offwidth problem (a #6 is useful) to a ledge. Climb the steep hand and fist crack which gets tricky near the top and ends under a large roof. Then enjoy a sit down rest and prepare for the mental crux.

Hand traverse the irregular crack left under the roof with good feet. The climbing is not that tough here, and it can be well-protected, but the gear is a bit fiddly and takes a little figuring out. Make sure you have some smaller cams (BD 0.3) for the beginning of this part.

At the end of the traverse, heave yourself one way or another up onto the ledge. My partner did a beached whale, and I did some sort of slabby, heel hook maneuver.

Rap from bolted anchor.

This is located on the western end of Eagle Rock's south face on a chunk of rock that is slightly detached from the main part of the formation. This is the left side of the crag as seen along the approach. Look for a crack in a left-facing corner under a large roof. It was painted with quite a bit of bird poop when I climbed it.

A double rack to a BD #3, maybe a #4 (I can't remember), and a #6 if you want to protect the offwidth start.