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Peak Mountain 3

Too Much Cock Not Enough Lycra

FA Pete Van Slooten
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Misprinted in the guidebook as "Too much chalk not enough lycra".

Route starts on a strange and surprisingly delicate traverse through two bolts. You then move straight up the face. The crux of the route is found on the bulge right at the beginning. Once you move over the bulge you continue up a beautiful vertical face on edges with a pocket or two thrown in the mix. finishes with a short slab run to the chains. One of the best routes for the grade in Cedar Canyon.

Location

The route is found up and left of the graveside matter wall slab. Start the traverse by scrambling up to the left nearly to the corner until you can easily gain access the ledge you will traverse.

Protection

Bolts to Rap anchors