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Peak Mountain 3

RPM (2nd pitch early exit)

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Description

For those wanting to add yet another classic pitch of 5.8 to 5.9 climbing to Outer Space, this is a must do. The splitter dihedral that makes up the first part of RPM's 2nd pitch can be climbed without having to commit to pulling the .10b roof.

Pitch 1: Climb any of the several options to get to the anchors at the base of RPM's 2nd pitch.

Pitch 2: Climb left from the anchor into the small right facing dihedral system and start laybacking your way up the beautiful corner for almost 35 meters. Once you reach the roof, pull left around the edge of the corner to a line of holds that traverses 15 feet left, then follow an easy 5th class ramp to a huge ledge with some trees. Because of rope drag from the traverse, it is advisable to belay your second up from a large slung block as soon as you reach the low 5th class ramp and do the short section to the ledge separately.

Pitch 3+: From here you can continue to the top on Outer Space.

See info for RPM and Outer Space.

Protection

Same rack as for Outer Space. Single or double length sling extensions are necessary for pieces you place before, during, and after the traverse to keep rope drag down.