- Edit (TBD)
Description
A fun outing that tackles a striking crack in the center of the headwall. This route shares the start with P1 of Iron Maiden.
P1: Start at the main toe of the slab and climb the black streak past a bolt to easier terrain. Follow the left arching flake until it ends and traverse right to a tree anchor. 110’ 5.4
P2: Climb straight up off the anchor passing three spaced bolts in the slab to a horizontal with gear. Finish at a double oak tree anchor. 110’ 5.7
P3: Walk up and left to the bulge and gain a crack that angles to the right. Follow the crack right until it ends and continue up the black slab past two bolts to a bolt anchor below the headwall. 100’ 5.6
P4: Double ropes may be useful on this pitch. Clip a bolt on the headwall and make a ridiculous mantle onto the sloping ledge (crux). Work right across the ledge with gear to a crack. Follow the steep crack up and left to a ledge. Climb onto a large right facing corner/flake and make a committing mantle to a belay at a cluster of spruce trees. 70’ 5.11+
P5: Finish up the right facing right angling corner to a large tree anchor at the summit. 60’ 5.5
FA: Jonathan Garlough & Brad White climbed pitches 1 and 2 Jonathan Baldassare, Jonathan Garlough & Bob Ahearn added pitches 3, 4, and 5.
Location
South Cliffs
Protection
Standard Rack, Bolts