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Peak Mountain 3

Ex-Ranger's Revenge

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Description

This is an alternative to the old

Cable Route

when that ones too wet. It is often drier, even though it's mossy, and the initial belay melts out earlier.

Step left at the roof to keep the grade at 5.5. A RMNP ranger recommended this to us, and I was grateful she did. With rope stretch, a 60m will take you to a talus filled basin where you can belay. An alternate belay if you run out of rope is about 25 feet down and to the left of the main crack/corner.

Location

From Chasm View, follow the crest as is reasonable until you hit the

Cable Route

slabs. This is two cracks left (about 50 feet) of the

Cable Route

and the last crack before you would pitch into the void that is Chasm Lake Cirque, meaning: you can't really go any  further left easily.

Protection

Nuts & medium hexes worked fine.