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Absolute classic! To avoid 13b out the roof, go left before the roof FOR AN 11C and go to the anchors of Measure Up! The crux on the 11c is out the super sweet dihedral, go for a jug with your left hand and get another jug with your right & THEN CLIP THE BOLT AT THE TOP OF THE DIHEDRAL. Don't get suckered to clip before the jugs. Tom R. fell off clipping that bolt and almost ripped his teeth out! For the 13b, the crux is out the roof + hanging on. If you don't do this route, you're crazy!
Location
This is on Chicken Head Ranch, see the guidebook for more information!
Protection
8 bolts for the 11c ONLY!! and about 13 bolts on the 13b.
Routes in Chicken Head Ranch
- 6Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank5.13aSport