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Peak Mountain 3

Be very, very quiet

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Description

Start in the crack, then go left from where it widens. There are some loose rocks stuck* in that horizontal part at which it (the crack) branches and widens, but you can still crimp on it with your right hand in order to go left to the sloper. Find something constructive to do with your feet as you match the sloper, then choose between (a) getting to the next ledge, probably by means of some sort of heel-hook on the sloper, or (b) bailing onto the ledges to your left.

*Too stuck to clean. I’m sorry.

Protection

As with all of these, because of the high grade of the landing, your pad would probably function like a slide or toboggan. Your problem would be that of optimizing the time at which you bail: too soon, and you take much of the momentum with your own friction; too late, and you go over the edge.


Routes in Impatience