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Peak Mountain 3

Angelfire

FA Dan Dellinges & others, 2007-2017
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A challenging and fun climb up a beautiful line. Very safe/well-protected. The crux is above the under-cling, followed by some tenuous edging on micro-crystals, followed by the 2nd crux stemming the shallow runnel feature.

Location

From the Route Descriptions by Dan Dellinges and Larry Zulim 2007-2018:"5.10d, one pitch, too long and off-set from the belay to top rope with a 60M rope. The climb starts from the belay bolts at the right edge of the Valhalla Traverse. Follow a natural white, water groove via bolts to a small ledge about half way. Some of this is very, very easy. There is a bolt above you but below a finger under cling. Above this bolt is a very thin spot to stand. It will look like you are standing on the bolt from below but not. This climb was put in on lead, the bolts were very hard to place. I did have to use aiders to place a couple, but did free those sections after. I eventually did lead it without any falls or hangs. We found the best way to climb most of the upper section was to stem it, but with very small steps. It’s a tough one. The bolt belay is up and to the left on a generous ledge. Take 13 draws."

Protection

13 draws. 70m rope.