- Edit (TBD)
Enter Sandman
Description
An excellent route that goes through the sizes on almost all excellent rock. Similar in quality and style to a typical Zion line. All belays are bolted and equipped for rapping.
P1) "The Lawnmower"
Lower quality and an entrance fee of sorts. Start on a small ledge with a tree as an anchor about 8 feet off the ground. A boulder problem down low through a roof leads to easier face climbing. 3 bolts, 2x .3 and a #3. 70' to a 2 bolt anchor on a small ledge, (5.11) 70' Hopefully will clean up more.
P2) Thin face climbing past a single bolt leads into a tips to finger corner leading to a big ledge with 3 bolts. (5.11) mostly thin gear and a few hand size. 30 M
P3) "Bat Country" A tight hands lieback leads to a roof (2 bolts) with baggy fingers above and then more fingers and flared hands leads to another great ledge. (5.11), 35 m
P4) Tight hands into hands, then a chimney protected by 2 bolts and then more hands lead to a ledge. (5.10) 30 M
P5) A steep chimney with a single bolt and optional #1 lead into steep hands and tight hands and a final large roof protected with a single bolt (for rope run). Easier climbing (#4) above leads to the "Indiana Jones Tunnel" (5.11), 25 M (The only pitch you need the 4 for)
P6) Move belay to other set of bolts. Traverse right into the #6 offwidth which leads to the top of the pillar and then some funky face climbing past 2 bolts and a tree bring you to the top. (5.10), 30 M (The only pitch you need the 6 for)
Location
On the east side. Follow the standard climbers trail down, but at the last gully before the wall cut skiers left. Look for a large cairn and the (faded) fixed handline that leads to the lip of the wall and the start of the raps. Six single rope raps will bring you to the ground and the start of the route.Note: on the second rap, have the first person floss the rope through the roof to get to the next anchor and then have the second put the rope on the outside of the crack so the rope doesn't get stuck.
Protection
Doubles .1-3 Single 4 and 6 Extra .3, .5 and 1 could be useful Draws, slings 70 M rope
Routes in Insomnia Canyon
- 7Enter Sandman5.11Trad