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Peak Mountain 3

Happily Ever Shafter

FA Evan Wisheropp
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This wild route climbs the gap between the left side of the pillar and the main wall. It begins with a tricky downward flare, climbs a unique "chimney" between two aretes, then continues on with an ever widening chimney. A single 60m rope just barely reaches the ground.

The physical crux is just getting past the first bolt where you may want to sit on someone's shoulders to pre-clip it. The rock is a bit silty there, but is immediately perfectly clean above there. The mental crux comes at reaching the 8th bolt, which is the easiest part of the chimney... not as hard or scary as it looks. Go for it!

This route was bolted on lead with big hefty powers bolts. I've led the route again since and must say it is an absolute pleasure!

Location

The upper half of the route can be identified by the trail by a giant chockstone on the left side of the pillar. Remember to find the trail hiking up to the pillar to minimize impact.

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.