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Peak Mountain 3

Alpenglow Arete

FA September 2018 - Samuel Johnson and Ian Colegrove
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Solo up easy slab to the base of the first pitch and small tree belay. While this pitch looks like 5.7 from the bottom you will find yourself doing all kinds of movement that doesn't belong on a 5.7! Funky but good gear in overlaps and a huge variety of hold types and movement make for a fun wake up call. Sling an alder and mantle onto the ledge to complete the pitch (2 bolt belay). Continue up easy ground (mostly 4th to 5.7) to reach the top of the lower buttress. Simul climb or solo along a sharp ridge to the base of the second buttress. Climbing up to 5.7 and more 4th/easy 5th soloing and simul climbing take you to the meadows on top of the second buttress and spectacular views. Descend a gully on the left (1 possible rappel).

Location

Locate the obvious tower feature from the cove. Ascend one of several rocky drainages to reach the access slab and the base of the first pitch.

Alpenglow Arete. Photo Ian Colegrove.

Protection

Trad. First pitch has a bolted belay, the rest is easier trad with trad belays.


Routes in Alpenglow Tower


  1. 1
    Alpenglow Arete
    5.10a
    Alpine · Trad