Super Squeeze

If there was ever a time where the name says it all...this is a funky route that may appear to be similar to

Tagger

in Eldo, but differs quite a bit.

Start with

Prelude to King Kong

and belay under the roof at a fixed anchor. The bolts/slings are old so you'll need some extra gear to back them up. I'm sure there are many possibilities on how to climb/protect the route, but essentially follow the double cracks out to the thin squeeze.

This is another route to go on Steve Levin's "Bird Tour" (see

Grandmother's Challenge

) extended to Boulder Canyon. Nesting pigeons have crapped all over the place, including a fist slot that provides a nice jam. Suck it up and stick that hand into the mess.

The slot out the roof is only possible to fit through if you're fairly thin (

i.e.

: I had quite a time at 5'10", 150lb.). So for larger folks, you may have to turn the roof farther outside, then (somehow) squeeze back into the chimney.

After shifting breakfast back to your throat, finish out the chimney then belay a little right of the chimney on a small ledge. This will allow you to hear your second grunt, cuss, and thrash his/her way up to you.

Cams from 0.5 Friend to #3 and a few draws for 'em. Long pants are recommended for whole-body jamming in the squeeze.