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Peak Mountain 3

Drowning in a River of Disturbance

FA A. Pon & E. Pain, 2003
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

There is some good climbing to be had here once you get past the first 20' of nonsense, and it could all be improved with a very vigorous brushing. The chipped hold (a broken out section of rock in a shallow corner to create a solid 1" edge) is indeed out of character for the route overall but takes the route from being potentially VERY hard to being relatively moderate but still insecure. A reachy crux follows, one that would be very hard for short climbers, reaching to the distant arete.

Once on the arete, continue up easier climbing to the top, where a 2-bolt anchor is set over a large ledge. Rap 85' from this anchor, as lowering will be tough on your rope, owing to said ledge.

Location

This route climbs the obvious line of bolts & pins to the right of the right-facing corner of

Spanky Goes to Hollywood

past a few cruxes then up the arete to a bolted anchor.

Protection

A dozen draws and slings. A stopper can be used to swage the second bolt, since there is a nut but no hanger on it. That said, the climbing at the second bolt is easy and a cam could be placed in a horizontal if one felt the need.


Routes in Swift Rock


  1. 2
    Drowning in a River of Disturbance
    5.10
    Sport
2000 km
1000 mi