Coalpit Connection

CoalPit Buttress, Coalpit Connection

, II, 5.10b, 4 pitches

Approach

: Same as first two pitches of Precious Lost. approach as for this climb.

Pitch #1

: Climb bolted slab of

Precious Lost

starting in the corner. 5.10

Pitch #2

: small and ez roof move to "the jungle moves"...rather than go left up Sumatra, belay at the tree (now one fixed nut and piton). 5.7.

Pitch #3

: Move right around a tree and corner arete to a very obscure "open book" corner which is guarded by a tree. A splitter finger crack ascends the left page of the book. The crack widens and go to the left belay ledge. 5.9.

Pitch #4:

Climb the left facing corner crack out left and up, then eventually reaching an exit to the right, which is about 30 feet above the top pitch of

Pentapitch

. 5.9.

Descend:

rap

Pentapitch

and walk back to the base.

Set of Camalots and nuts. The protection is excellent.