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Peak Mountain 3

Stargate

FA Chris Hirsch, Andy Koosman, Sept. 5, 2015 (Ground Up)
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

This is the striking finger crack on the East face.

P1: (5.10-, 80’) Start in dirty cracks on East face. Climb up and left on good gear to a small roof. Hand traverse under the roof for a wild exit into the finger crack. Follow the finger crack past a tree to a nice belay ledge. This pitch is covered in moss and lichen but is surprisingly fun!

P2: (5.8, 80’) Climb the clean finger crack as it slowly widens to hands. If this pitch was anywhere near a road, it would be an all-time classic!

Descent: From the summit, scramble down to a minor summit with webbing. A single 70m rope will get you down.

Location

East face of Portal Peak.

Protection

Nuts, 2 x Red C3-#3, 1 x #4 & #5


Routes in Portal Peak


  1. 1
    Stargate
    5.10-
    Trad
2000 km
1000 mi