- Edit (TBD)
Description
Nice addition to the area. Not a 5.9 as it's called in the new guide.
From the anchor at the top of Rox Salt, step out left and traverse about 10 ft onto the ledge and head up towards the first bolt. A couple of unprotected 5.6-ish moves gets you to the bolt. Careful of the hollow flake. Follow the line of bolts. Gear placement possible between bolts 2-3...#2 cam or a medium size hex (BD #8/9) should drop in there.
Two noticeable cruxes-between bolt 1-2 and further up near the top by bolt 4-5. Two bolt anchor with rap rings at the top. First one involves a hard sidepull with thin feet...gotta get the sequence right. The second is on small crimps.
You can rig a TR on this by climbing Really Flaky or most of Roux. Rock quality is mostly good throughout. You could probably escape the upper crux by moving further right to the sketchy large flakes of Really Flaky or to the left and easier holds on the blunt arete/corner.
Location
Starts on a ledge left of the bolts atop Rox Salt or right of the sling tree atop Unrelenting Verticality.
Protection
Quickdraws and either a #2 cam and/or a medium hex.
Routes in North Peak - East Face
- 13Nubbin Drubbin5.10aSport · Tr