- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route (although seldom climbed) has much to offer in the single pitch adventure category. The climbing is unique and awkward the whole way. Follow the obvious ramp left placing gear when possible until this ramp moves upward and dissipates. The crux is the last section of face climbing. Anchors are straight up despite seeing an obvious set of anchors out to the left just before the crux.
Location
Starts just left of Psoriasis on the obvious ramp that continues leftward around the crag.
Protection
Portland Rock Climbs book states 3" but I used nothing bigger than 1". Chains at top to rap. Expect run-outs as there are very few spots for gear.
Both vintage bolts have been replaced with SS 1/2" bolts as of 10/18/14. Both old bolts were left for history's sake. It is obvious that they should not be clipped. The route is more like PG13 rating now, since any fall will be long, but clean, and on a good bolt.
Routes in French's Dome
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