Chase the Dragon

Pitch 1 (15 m)- Aid crux. Start on 1/4" stud, moving up past several bolts, mostly without hangers, on a pinned out crack. Free climb over bulge and up to a bolt with hanger. Optional belay here, or link with pitch 2.

Pitch 2 (15 m)- Continue up crack, eventually free climbing. Be kind to the bird that lives halfway up this pitch in the horizontal crack; he's friendly. Loose and dirty ~5.7 free climbing gets you to a crappy two bolt anchor- one with no hanger, one with a rusted Leeper.

Pitches 3-4 (~60 m)- Traverse right on easy but loose terrain, past two old bolts with Leeper hangers. The rock improves the further you go. Keep traversing up and around to summit. There is one new glue in on the summit. A 60 m rope might not reach to it, so it might be best to belay at one of the old bolts mid traverse.

Middle of the Ear, on the north side. Look for a bolt about 12' off the ground.

See Marty Karabin's guide for a map, and Phoenix Rock for a topo.

Rack

1 set Totems black-red 1 #2 C4 1-2 sets angles 3/8-3/4 a couple LA's small-med nuts, reg and offset (I only placed two) ~6 rivet hangers (or 3/8 bolt hangers and a wrench)

Did not use: hooks beaks blades