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Peak Mountain 3

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FA Chris Snyder
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Description

This rarely climbed route rises for a full rope-length to the left of Zebra/Zion's second pitch, and finishes at the Zebra/Zions mid-climb belay ledge. With surprisingly good knob-covered stone and continuous difficulty, this line makes an excellent diversion from the throngs of topropers below.

The route can be climbed as a 2nd pitch to any of the routes left of Zebra Seam (Gumby, Light on the Path, etc). This is probably wise if the route is near your limit, and is probably the most common approach. Climb whichever route is available and belay at the Gumby anchor.

Alternatively, if you don't mind the rope drag, and can scrounge up 16 draws, the route can be done in one mega pitch from the ground to the ledge, and descended with two 30m rappels.

The first crux hits about 15 feet above the Gumby anchor with tricky arete pinches surmounting the 16 inch roof. Once over the roof, super fun knobs head up and left to a second thin crux over somewhat marginal rock just below the ledge. A few slopey slab moves lead to the ledge.

Location

Begins above the Gumby anchor, following first the arete, and then the face left of Zebra/Zion's 2nd pitch.

Protection

16 bolts if done as one pitch. 3 bolt chain anchor atop Gumby, and 2 bolt chain anchor at the ledge.