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Peak Mountain 3

Millard Crack

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Description

There used to be a campground host at Millard who was definitely on crack, but not this kind of crack. The route starts on a slab with a kind of high first bolt. Clip the bolt to your left and then follow the crack up while clipping more bolts out to the left. Finish by traversing left to the 3 bolt anchor.

Location

On the right side of the waterfall to the far right. Start at a slab in the corner.

Protection

4 New 3/8 bolts with 1 rusty 1/4 at the top left as a history lesson. Please don't use cams on this route it protects fine with the bolts and the rock might not hold a fall on gear.

It is possible to set up a TR for this route but it is pretty sketchy. There's a trail above the canyon and right above this route there is a boulder with a bolt and a metal post. Clip the bolt and sling the post and rap down the steep yucca filled dirt hill. Clip into the anchors and pull your rope. Do not do this unless you have the canyon to yourself because you will knock down a ton of rocks.


Routes in Millard Canyon