McQuarrie Route

If you're seeking the epitome of an old school, sand-bagged, heady, obscure, unnerving and ballsy adventure, look no further than this climb! Rated a modernly dubious 5.9+ in 1964, you'll need more than just technique on this historic monster; you'll need chutzpah as well.

Pitch 1 & 2: Moderate and varied corner climbing gets you within striking distance of the first crux traverse. 5.5-5.7, 250'

Pitch 3: Crux #1, make your way up the corner to the shallow roof and an old pin. From here, commit to the spicy under-cling traverse out right with delicate feet and cast-iron nerve. (Beware of extending pro or reap the drag later) Pull the corner into "the insecure, polished corner with just enough hidden gear to keep you from bailing or taking a huge ride." (

Ferguson to Lone Peak, A Granite guide by Smith, Burr, Phillips

) I belayed at the intermediate ledge with a sturdy little mahogany tree & a .75 crack, although the Granite guide says to "sling the chickenhead out left for the belay." 5.9(+)—5.10a, 110'

Pitch 4: Crux #2, continue up the blank, improbable and steep groove corner system (what

J-Sexy aptly termed "vertical nothing") through creative movement and some even more creative aiding. I felt aiding (A0) through a body length or so of this section was mandatory. It also involved slipping my smallest nut cable over a rusty bolt pin (clearly once something critical for executing this section), clipping a runner to it and high stepping to glory. Precarious but doable! Mince movements until you can finally escape out left past the big chickenhead. Continue up crack, make a short traverse right into the "torpedo tube," and head up, taking care to not pass up any opportunities to place gear because trust me, they run out. Physical and at times heady climbing through groove and bush takes you to the inside corner of the upper roof. Belay off the stout mahogany tree.

(5.9+ A0 or 5.10b/c)

150'

Pitch 5: From the tree traverse straight right (NOT UP) to a crack system, chunky under-cling flake and short crack to a good-sized belay ledge. 5.9+ 50'

Pitch 6: Finagle your way atop the big chickenhead centered below two rusty pins. Clip n' go, moving in a left traverse to gain a gravelly shoulder. Overcome the final thing guarding between you and the end—a damned bush creating a scratchy choke-point in a crack. Find your way past this bush and scramble up the low angle kitty litter ramp to the end of the route. 5.9+, 120'

Pitch 7 (OPTIONAL): Scramble up 5.5 slabs to the summit. Dry heave and then fist bump each other. 120'

RAP 'Root of Boll Weevil'

The 'proud line' of the tower, start in the middle of the wall about 50 feet right of the base of 'Route of All Evil.' A prominent corner heads left of a large roof low-down.

Gear- Doubles to 4, micro-cams/nuts for the aiding section. Also; a pair of brass balls or aluminum ovaries