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Peak Mountain 3

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Description

This route is a pretty mellow route but has even less good gear than the average Flatiron route, at least the way we did it. Regardless, it is mostly solid stone and fun climbing.

There is a belay at ~200' (60 meters of rope to the end) on a good shelf 30' below the top to stop on. To identify it, find the natural thread. The top is a knife-blade and does not afford a good belay anyway, so stop there. To top out, send one climber up and over, then down the back while belaying - the stronger party can come down solo after the first one is safely down, having been belayed by a rope up and over the summit to the opposite side and ground.

Location

On the left side of the East Face of the Dinosaur Rock, just left of a small broken slab that leans on the main face and just right of the closure area sign, there is a smooth ramp going up and right along a dark groove in the rock. Follow this until the rock gets flaky, then bump up over a wall to the right to better rock and better holds. This is probably 5.4.

Protection

A few TCUs and cams. Maybe a Lowe Tricam or two. I placed a #0.75 Camalot, a #2 Camalot, and a red tricam, in all.