Question of Balance

Excellent route on the South face of Comp Wall with (as eloquently described in the Bingham guide) an awesome, exposed face to the top of the wall. The route does not actually top out, although it may be possible to bypass the chains and continue on to the top; we didn’t attempt that.

P1.  Start with P1of La Vida on gear and then, when bolts appear, take the left bolt line which breaks off at about the fourth bolt on La Vida.  Cruise a few more bolts to a set of bolts with chains.  See La Vida for the complexities on this pitch.

P2.  5.10a Slab, thin and steep in spots.  Follow bolts to a big ledge with a set of bolts with chains on the left wall above the ledge.

P3.  5.10c Thin start onto a balancy mantel leads to an intimidating-looking bulge that is great fun.  A crux may be the last move to the chains...I have to put an asterisk on my send as I french freed on a chain.

There is a variation on P3 called La Vida Loca that takes a line of bolts left after the mantel. We didn’t do it and the book rates it at 5.11a.

Rappel the route with a 70m rope. It looks like a 60m would work fine.

Start on La Vida, and take left line of bolts about 3/4 of the way up La Vida P1.

14 draws plus light rack for P1 of La Vida. Optional ‘stiffy’ draw for a couple of oddly high bolt placements.