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Peak Mountain 3

South Chimney

FA Jack Delk and GuyMcClure, 1975
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An interesting and old school adventure romp up to the summit of Chiquito Dome.

P1 - 5.9 - Start in the big obvious off-width chimney thing. Grovel through the crux to an easier hand crack above. Traverse over to a bolted anchor - 60+ meters.

P2 - 5.10a - Traverse out on an undercling, clip a dubious 1/4", 30 year old bolt and head out onto crux friction moves. Clip a second bolt, then make your way to an intermediate anchor. Clip the anchor down climb and traverse over the arete. 2 more, new and shiny SS bolts lead you up to a ledge with some bushes. 25 meters Gear belay

P3- P5- easy 5th - 5.7 climb the easy slab until you head into the giant chimney system. Here the climb becomes part caving expedition as you make your way up the dark deep chimney. Continue up easier terrain to the top of the dome.

Location

Center of the dome, its the first route you come to off the approach trail, and heads up a ramp into an obvious wide crack system.

Protection

gear to 4"