Flakenstein

A steep route with a thin, difficult start, jugs and crimps in the middle, and a thin finish to the right side of a large, obvious flake just below the anchors.

The crux is low; getting to the first bolt is thin and balancy with tenuous crimps and insecure slopers. The second clip is difficult and awkward from a sidepull (my partner muttered imprecations and issued impolite speculation about the (then) unknown bolter while making the clip).

The middle of the route is a brief, welcome respite, and then comes an exciting, overhanging finish past the flake.

The route curves to the left and the shared anchors are above the left side of the flake. This causes the rope to drag across a sharp edge of the flake while lowering; unclip the rope from the last bolt while lowering. Also, the curvature of the route makes cleaning while lowering difficult.

The second-from-left of four bolted routes on the section of the

Hidden Wall

that is closest to the trail. Shares anchors with the route to the left of the flake (

Tales from the Gripped

).

9 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors.