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Peak Mountain 3

Southeast Buttress

FA Mark Ronca, Ryan Schuster, June 2001
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a fun alpine route on the Southeast Buttress of Taylor Peak

Pitch 1 - climb the left-facing corner through a small roof (5.9).

Pitch 2 - continue past the corner then up and right (5.7).

Pitch 3 - climb the chimney then angle up and right on flakes (5.4).

Pitch 4 - move past a chockstone then up to the base of the first headwall (5.4).

Pitch 5 - follow a right-facing corner then traverse right (5.7) and belay.

Pitch 6 - easy ground leads to a 5.7 ramp angling left to the top of the spire.

Pitch 7 - climb the line of weakness up and left. Belay on a small step (5.9).

Pitch 8 - traverse right (5.8) around the arête, then climb up and right to the base of the large, left-facing corner.

Pitch 9 - traverse right 20’, then climb up and right (5.7).

Pitch 10 - traverse into the chimney, and follow it to the top (5.7).

Location

Locate a prominent left facing corner in the center of the buttress.

Protection

A standard alpine rack to a #3.