Direct Northeast Face

This is a seldom climbed route at most, and perhaps never climbed before. The moves are good and the position good, but the rock in a few sections is uncleaned and the protection would be best considered marginal.

Follow the North Face route to above the cave to access the gully. Follow the gully a short way above a bulge in the arete to the left (N.E. arete of the fin) as it becomes distinct and climbable. This is just above a small pine tree, perhaps 30' below the larger one in the top of the notch with the 2011 closure sign affixed to the West side of it and the walk-off gully choked by a boulder.

From that point, get onto the North side of the arete, a vertical wall with flakes for hands and primarily slopers for feet and head on up. Perhaps 8 meters below the summit, the route crosses the arete to the East side and continues up just after a few good jams. This route is lichenous, and some of the flakes are a little fragile. I did it on a cold and dewy morning in approach shoes, and the black dog came and hounded me a few times on some of the moves. The grade given is only estimated. Perhaps I skipped some good holds in favor of security, or perhaps I used some others may not prefer to. Honestly, it felt harder with approach shoes, a little moisture and cold fingers (it was 32 degrees) but looking back on the moves, I don't think they were highly technical. Still, since failure = maiming or death, a rope and some gear, or at least good shoes are advised.

The route follows the

North Face

route, primarily, but rather than picking its way up and around on ramps once above the cave, it goes up the steep South Face rather directly on sidepulls flakes and slopers.

I did not place protection, as this was done on solo, but a standard light rack to 3" would likely provide some occasional gear and keep the grimmest of realities in check.