The Death of the Magician

Intimidating thoughtful crux sequence, plus some other fun moves.

Start up the angular boulder under the left inside of the big alcove. Step Left off boulder around corner and across face to reach base of vertical crack. Straight up the crack to the top.

. . Variation ? Alternate route ? There is a report that a party climbed the overhanging arete above (and below?) the step-left-across move. Look forward to someone who knows about this achievement providing details in a comment below -- or posting a new description of a separate route.

name? Chapter title from the 2006 science fiction novel 三体 (The Three-Body Problem), which won top awards beyond China, and continued into a trilogy 地球往事.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2017. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Under the left side of the big central alcove / cave / chimney. See the obvious vertical crack starting about 15 feet up and about 4 feet left from the left edge of the cave.

• • see on this Photo

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the description of The Good Book Sector