Fingers laybacking to thin tips to thin hands. Varied and very entertaining.

Beasts of the Northern Wild

Burnt Tree Corner

Divisions

Burning Down the House

Frogger

Magnum

More Cowbell

Moondog

Russian Jenga

Booster Seat

Chimenea

Shadow Boxing

Psycho Killer

Dread Pirate Roberts

Unknown Finger Crack

Buck Up

Ephemeral Epitomist

The Odyssey

Kev Crack

After Party Party

Glasnost Crack

Isengard

Unnamed Wide Crack

Opus

Full Monty

Methedras

Charlie's Six

Unknown

Handyman

Tip of the Toe

The Apostate

Buck Nasty

Adiós Alemanes

The Haymaker

Feeding Frenzy

Eternal Optimist

Achilles

Chokecherry

Sundog

Title 9

The Trojan

Tips Up

Hector

Zozobra

Barracuda

Tensioner

Burning Man

Asterix and Oblelix

Chimney Sweep

Solstice

Percussion Flake

New Mexico Welcome Party

Chunnel

Und Foxi

Knot your rope. Tips to fingers to hands to overhanging cupped hands. An absolutely amazing climb with a huge amount of variety.

The obvious right-facing corner that ends at the burnt tree, starting from a ledge 40' up, 50' left of The Trojan wall.  It is shaded by early afternoon, when those climbs are in the hot sun. 

  The meat of the climb is wide hands stemming in the corner, but the climbing is varied over all.  Hand cracks in R-facing corners gain 2 ledges before you reach the start of the obvious corner.  You could scramble up easy blocky loose junk to the right, to get to the corner as well.

Interesting and extremely varied climbing. Very un-Capulin like. The gear is good, but it takes some thinking, particularly for the upper 1/3rd.

A wild and aesthetic line following unlikely cracks and seams, pieces together seamlessly on bomber rock with solid gear placements. Requires a fair bit of try-hard, a must-do for the bold and Adventurous. Start by spending your green C3s in a thin, unusable crack leading to a pod with a good hand jam ( an optional red C3 fits just below the jam getting you one last piece before standing up to clip the first bolt at the power crux.) Climb through two more bolts and lots of thin crack and unlikely pockets that lead you to an amazing but tricky final upper crux

Two frogs were hanging out half way up (half in, half out) the right hand crack on the FA. Obvious twin finger/tips cracks about two and a half feet apart. Leaping your way up this one requires some tricky leg work.

Start off with your #6 until you can clip some bolts.  Head up through the remaining wide crack and head right to the anchors.

Climbs to an interesting looking after split by a crack. It’s possible to climb the thin hands crack on the legt as well though it has some bird poop in it.

Short and a bit crunchy but not a bad way to sample the wall for the first time.

Crunchy, scorched rock on the lower half of this shorty mars this little thin hands splitter. Still, it climbs alright and adds to the Capulin 5.10s list.    A few paces left of Tips Up. A finger crack leads to a small block that looks like it should come out but feels surprisingly solid. Above the block it's thin hands to hands to a hidden anchor just over the lip to the right.    If you're curious about the name, take a look up above from the anchor.

Called Booster Seat because the route really starts with the thin hands on top of the big block. The OW at the start is quite easy, the upper thin hands not nearly so easy. Pretty darn fun if you happen to have a #6 with you or feel OK running it out a little ways on easy wide climbing.

This is an interesting route for those in search of squeeze chimneys, but because it is on the second tier of rock above Moondog and because it has no anchor (we drilled bolts but the rock was too soft even for a half-inch sleeve bolt) it is unlikely to see much attention.  If you do go up there, start on the big ledge beneath a chimney that varies in width between 18 and 25 inches. Plug a few small pieces and then burrow into the chimney; wiggle back and forth and generally go inwards and upwards. There is a finger crack inside that you can protect. 

 We rapped off a small aspen right near the top of the route, then rapped again to get to the ground.

Kind of silly because its so short, but still a fun and safe way to practice off width technique.

Arguably one of the most wild and varying routes in Capulin.  Guaranteed to have something to please everyone. 

  Chimney up a section of easy broken blocks,heading right around a corner to access the main dihedral. This leads to the base of the long steep corner.  Lose your #6 in the wide pod at the lower part of the steep corner, and charge up through a wild overhanging dihedral with great hands and a short section of fingers lieback.  Pull into the OW slot (some smaller gear in back) and squeeze up another 15 feet where you can place a #5 near the top.  A little higher and you can reach the first bolt.  At this point, you are 120' off the ground and you need to traverse left to a stance.  A series of wildly exposed mantels and pocket pulling through two more bolts gets you back to the corner.  One more small piece of gear protects a cool move that gets you to theledge with the anchor.  80m rope barely reaches with rope stretch.

The 5.12 listed in "Rock and Road." A slight offset crack that slowly gets wider up a gently overhanging and featureless wall. The crux is tight greens through the overhanging section, with no feet. Short and straight forward; pure (and painful) crack climbing at its best.  

  The anchor is two Rawl 5 piece bolts right under the roof.

Very thin start to fun and varied climbing. Has a face climbing crux right off the ground and a power crux at the top. The offwidth to the right of the corner is the Fezzik variation. It goes at 5.10, #5 and #6.

This is the obvious finger crack to the left of the offwidth New Mexico Welcome Party.  

  Shares anchor with New Mexico Welcome Party.

The most obvious clean dihedral on the upper wall. Good as a reference point. Pitch 1 is fun fingers and hands (5.10). Belay on a big ledge about 70 feet up. P2 is an amazing stretch of stemming and thin climbing (5.11+).

Thin hands to hands to fat fingers layback.

Start under a roof, reach up to the base of a splitter tight-hands crack, up to a right trending finger traverse to a large block, then bust right around the block through the same finish as The Trojan.

This route looks a lot harder than it actually climbs.  Great jams and other interesting holds in the steep corner with overlaps.   

  Step up into a fun chimney and pop a cam above you before transitioning into the nice corner crack.  Step up onto an alcove, catch your breath, and cruise easier terrain to the anchors.

At the left of the Alcove just at the top of the Capulet/Capulin juncture.

A remarkably fun and moderate second pitch to either Moondog (probably the best approach) or P1 of the Full Monty. Look for the handcrack splitting the roof on the second tier of the Full Monty alcove. Good hands leads to a four or five foot #5 section below a roof. Pull the roof, punch through another roof on #2s to a nice hand crack, then face climb up an interesting and textured face, placing gear in the crack and in good horizontals.

This is an extraordinary route in an extraordinary location and well worth the effort of climbing a (fun) approach pitch to get to it. The route starts on a civilized belay ledge at the base of the crack, climbs beautiful 11- fingers/thin hands to a pod where it possible to get a no hands rest below a tiny roof. The business begins with 12+ laybacking up a shallow edge for about ten feet to a jug and a quasi-rest/stem; excellent nut placement here. More 5.12 stemming and face climbing takes you to the top, past one bolt. Anchors/chains at top.

Wide crack all the way up but easy to layback and stem and stay out of the crack. Can't see anchor from below.

As for Magnum, head up the wide crack with your #6 Camalot, clip the two bolts along the way.  Place one more wide piece above and reach out right to a mailslot.  Clip another bolt above and traverse right to the layback flake that transitions to a nice hand crack.

Full Monty: P1 is about 5.9, 70ft, P2 is about 5.10-, 90ft). P1 is the Half Monty; nice stemming up a broken corner. P2 is the Full Monty, which features everything you might expect to see in a climb plus a few things you probably could have done without seeing. Wide crack to a corner to a roof to a wild, featured off width chimney.

Methedras forms the back wall of Isengard fortress. This route is tucked away in a shady corner around the back of the tower (see beta photo). It never receives sun so is good on a hot day. Fun slightly wide climbing leads to smaller stuff to an anchor.

A great option for warming up prior to the longer, pumpier Handyman. Shares start with Handyman. After the first ledge, stay right in the hand crack behind the large flake. Enjoy the hand jams until you reach a decent ledge. Rest up and fire the final section of fist crack leading to full-on off width. Charlie's #6 protects the mantel onto the finish ledge nicely; your #6 should work just as well.There are no anchor bolts on this route currently, as we didn't have a bolt kit. I had to top out the climb. The top out is loose and dangerous; it is not recommended. Anchor bolts will be added at the finish ledge as soon as I can get back out there.

A clear line that goes all the way to the top of the cliff. Fun and varied climbing through a couple of roofs.

The route is fantastic except for one little blip. It has 80 feet of great hands in great rock up a steep face, but the first 20 feet on soft choss approaching the wall detract some. Traverse in from the right stepping carefully, clip a couple of fixed pieces (back clean the first). The white crumbly stuff is only about 5.0 and the crack is worth the dirty walk. Be careful with a 60m rope! It would be possible to lower off the end when lowering downhill--knot the end.

A very fun route that is only marred by a bit of crumbly 4th class scrambling to get to the base of the crack. The crux is over in the first twenty feet, and the rest of the route is fun 5.10 rambling up solid rock.

Shares the first fifteen feet of climbing with Buck Up and then steps left. Beautiful climbing on bullet rock; tips to small fingers to a fun little roof. The crux is the five or six feet of slot going up to the little roof; for those with large fingers, this may well be 12+. Fired OS by Cody.

Enjoyable face climbing/finger crack start leads to an easy ramp following a finger crack. Hands to wide hands climbing leads to an overhanging, offset #4 camalot crux crack. The offset nature of the crack means one doesn't have to conjure up serious OW climbing.  

  Cop a rest above the overhanging crux before finishing up via an offset wide crack/chimney to a ledge and the anchor.

Beautiful fingers for 40 feet to a pod, then hands. 

  Just after you think you passed the crux section, it delivers the knockout punch. 

  You can start by walking out a bushy ledge, but better to start with a dirty but easy boulder problem down and right with a simple mantle onto the starting ledge.  Good spot to belay too.

Fingers to thin hands to hands.  Shares anchor with Percussion Flake.

Excellent hands to fists in a very clean corner.

For those with bigger hands, this is your Achilles Heel. 

  This route would be 4-stars if it were a little longer. 

This route shares the first 50 feet or so of Beasts of the Northern Wild and is higher quality. There is a 5.11- crux right off the ground (well protected but think about rope drag when placing gear) which leads to a very easy ramp. The wall turns vertical again and the crack goes into a body-sized V slot/roof feature; climb into this slot (good but tricky protection) and step into the right dihedral (go left here for Beasts). Delicate 5.11 climbing with small gear (take some RPs or small nuts) leads you to a terrific ledge about 40 feet from the top. If you still have energy, keep going up the perfect acute corner. Or, build a gear belay and bring up your partner so that you can admire their technique on steep #0.75s.

 To get down, rap with a single 70 to the lower Beasts anchor, then to the ground.

Thin hands stemming to a very short section of OW to a single bolt protected slab move.

Once you figure it out, the start is equal opportunity for all finger sizes.

Another Capulin classic splitter.

 Start up a wide crack that winds up and left to hands, then to fingers to a roof block. Pull around the to the right of the block to a bolted chain anchor.

 Early season there may be some packrat nesting materials on the ledge off the ground. You can either climb around it, which is not too bad, or use a short stick to push some of it off the edge so you can avoid climbing through it.

Very thin dihedral; looks unlikely but climbs very well. An excellent piece protects a short run out to the anchor.

Start at the base of the left of double cracks.  Climb up through a techy crux that uses the right crack and some face holds to join the top of Achilles, only with a unique sequence to make the join.

Thin hands to hands. Had sling belay. Guessing this is the 5.10 mentioned in Rock and Road. Very fun and a good introduction to the area.

Fingers next to a pillar that is easy to stem off of for the first half of the route.

Fun and intricate climbing. Starts out with broken blocky climbing below a steep and blank head wall with an obvious finger crack.

Thin hands to a crux traverse to thin hands to short wide, to short fists, to short hands. Extraordinary and quite physical.

Two really fun and radically different pitches. P1 is the Obelix pitch; surprisingly accessible 5.10 wide climbing through pods with stemming possible for part of it. Hand jams at the at the tops of the pods keep it from being too difficult. P2 is the Asterix pitch; step left at the belay, and work your way up a challenging dihedral on bullet rock. Tricky 5.11. Tiny tips climbing gives way to fingers and the crux is over quickly, though the climbing remains engaging all the way up. The rock is excellent. Superb!

Thin hands in a corner to a couple of wider pods to an interesting chimney finish. A great variety of climbing on this one. 

A nice and straight forward finger crack takes you to a stout but short layback section (crux).

Hands to a nice rest on the arete out left about halfway. Then fat fists/OW to the slab finish. Shares anchor with Feeding Frenzy

Start under the big flake in the cave. We jumped up and down on it and couldnt get it to budge, so it seems pretty safe to climb over. Pretty fun, a little weird.

Starts out at #5 and goes to tight chimney. Fix und Foxi is the most successful and best known German comic series.

The upper wall can be approached by any of any of the approaches marked on the main overview map. The majority of the routes on this wall are 100 feet or less, though there are some excellent routes that require two ropes. The easiest way to get to the wall proper is to head up the shoulder of the Capulet side canyon and the main canyon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Wall