Start in underclings into a low thug crux to 1st bolt- then some easier climbing to a dyno ( or dead point if you are tall)  at 4th bolt - following that a difficult boulder problem -v7 isn -leads to jugs followed by a few easier thin moves into a glory easy finish! a little runout to chains adds some spice, but remains safe.

Shaggadelic

The Great Escape

Tightrope

Meltdown

Death to the Queen

It Ain't Pretty Being Easy

Recombinant DNA

Standard Route

Nice Tooth

Two Shaved Heads

Short Bob

Patches the Clown

Block Buster

Unitard

Rough Rhino

Kick to the Teeth

Deja Voodoo

Fuzzy Rhino Slippers

Diesel

The Long and Short of It

Unknown

Ginseng Route

The Ritual

Screw It

Cut Split and Delivered

Agro Shagg

Rhino Flake

Grimas De Oro

Fat Bastard

Unknown Name

Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy

Pushes Little Daisies

Shagg Zag

The Raging Bull

Short Shagg

Fat Pig

What About Bob?

Shaggin Wagon

Lady’s Delight

Looney Tunes

Sour Diesel

Shagg It

Diesel Bob

Freedom Variation

Late for Dinner

Summer Smoke

Velvet Elvis

Cell Block D

What About Bobcat

When the fat lady sings

Continental Divide

Meltdown climbs the heavily chalked line on the right, shorter side of the cliff. It's the next route right of Shaggin Wagon.

 This route is like a steeper version of Venus at Rumney. It's all about power-endurance. Thin holds just seem to keep coming and success depends on your ability to manage the pump. If you sit back and envision the perfect sport route, then you are probably thinking about Meltdown.

The Great Escape climbs the obvious right-angling fault up the center of the cliff. It's amazing that a route of this grade climbs up this steep wall, as much harder routes exist both to the left and the right of The Great Escape. 

  This route is pretty much the perfect warmup. It's close to the harder routes and has good holds but maintains a steep angle throughout it's length. However, if you're here just to tick this route, I'd also say that this is worth the trip to the crag.  

  It's a bit runout to the first bolt. If you have an extra-super long stick, you could stick clip it, maybe. Start off the pile of boulders and begin climbing up and right. Follow the big holds to some tricky moves right below the chains.

Tightrope climbs the line of bolts just left of Ginseng. The crux, coming about two thirds of the way up, is quite a memorable one. Despite my efforts to find alternate beta, the move boils down to a huge dyno. With a very thin left crimp, you set up and throw and hit a sloper at full extension. Holding the outward swing is the most difficult part. It's just so easy to let go of that small crimp, but that's really the only thing holding you in.  

  If the climbing leading up to the crux was trivial, I'd call this an average route. Since the moves before the crux are still hard, maybe about 12a, and since the crux move is so spectacular, I call this a tough and very fulfilling 12d.

Another route that breaks through the huge roof above the Standard Route crack. This is the middle route starting off the "Bird's Perch" ledge. Belay from anchors on the left side of the ledge. Follow the shallow dihedral and finger crack past tenuous moves to the huge roof. Wild climbing out the roof leads to a fun dihedral and the top of the cliff.

This route is like a little piece of Rumney transplanted about 100 miles east. It Ain't Pretty climbs up a sinuous line of ill-defined corners on the far left end of the cliff. This is the schist part of the crag. The cool granite starts a bit to the right. As with most shisty climbs, this route offers strange climbing on a daunting array of corners, blocks, and ledges. As for the crux, I'd say it was more sustained than cruxy. I just felt off-balance the whole way.   

Difficult face moves off the ground get you past the first 3 bolts and a run-out to a 2 bolt anchor. Continue up easy terrain past 2 more bolts to crux moves in the white rock band to a ledge and anchors.  Harder for short people.

Start up Ginsing.After the crux at flake traverse left 10 feet into the crux of tightrope. Finish at anchors for tightrope.

Two Shaved Heads is located on the far right side of the cliff, past Meltdown, on a separated section of rock. The routes here are slightly less pumpy than those on the main part of the cliff, partly because they're shorter and partly because they're less steep.  

  Unlike many other routes at Shagg, Two Shaved Heads offers vertical, technical climbing. It is also much harder than it looks. After the steep, relatively easy start, the climbing becomes delicate and and culminates in some hard moves at the top. Expect to use your fingers more than your biceps on this one.

A fun, easier alternative to What About Bob.  Avoids the nasty crux at the bottom of What About Bob then bails to anchors before the upper difficulties.

A great route often overlooked because of a lack of bolts on the first 40 feet of climbing. Climbs the Standard Route crack to a move up and right to reach the first bolt (5.5). Fun well protected climbing leads through smooth rock to a finishing crux mantle to reach the anchors. Used to access the "Bird's Perch" ledge and the climbs that start from there.

Easy climbing leads to interesting moves past 3 bolts onto the low-angle slab above. Stop here at a 2 bolt anchor to make it 5.9, or continue for a pumpy burn up an overhanging crack/seam past 3 more bolts.

Fun but sharp face climbing brings you up along the edge of the arete to the top of the boulder. Just about the easiest line at Shagg.  Originally done with only one bolt protecting a thin move near the bottom.

Bouldery! Hard moves off the ground to a stance. More tough climbing leads to the the chains.

Ascends the interesting white face on the far right end of Shagg.

Technical face climing on semi-chossy rock. It is unlike many of the other steep climbs at Shagg.The crux is at the first bolt. More technical climbing and the use of the right arete get you to the chains. When you are at the top enjoy the beautiful view of the pond and the western Maine mountains!

Start up short shagg then continue straight up to anchors of great escape, up the slightly overhanging beautiful granite face with the tiny crimps. VERY BOULDERY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 From Nathan Kimble: A variation of this route was first climbed by David Graham call Diesel Bob. Dave was kind enough to stay off my project until I completed it.

Not the most popular route at Shagg, at first glance the route appears uninspiring yet the climbing is interesting and varied. Starts out at the base of It Ain't Pretty and immediately moves left requiring big moves on good crimps and sidepulls. An exciting sequence spits you out on  a rest ledge above half-way.  Finish straight up and right with a few difficult moves to gain the top.

Great climbing up slightly less than vertical rock to a short overhang with positive holds.

Ginseng is perhaps the best route at Shagg. It's pretty much the perfect endurance test (for the Northeast). Start off a pile of boulders left of the obvious right-angling weakness of The Great Escape (10d). 

  The first half of the route climbs up a beautiful pane of Shagg's trademark fine-grained granite. Unlike granite elsewhere in the area, this rock forms into perfect horizontal slots that make for good, if a bit slopey, handholds. A few taxing moves take you to a break. This is where the cliff changes to schist and the angle kicks back even more.  

  The schist is a bit reminiscent of the rock at Orange Crush at Rumney and offers interesting big flake/sidepull features. Like all good endurance routes, a tough move guards the anchors.

One of the few great endurance routes at Shagg, and one of 4 that start on The Great Escape. To reduce rope drag, skip the clip on the flake of Shagg It, or bring a full length sling. This makes the next section (where the gray rock meets the schist) a bit creepy, albeit safe with a good belay. There are a couple of hard moves before a good hold can be acquired to clip off of after this section. After rounding the corner, finish by climbing into Shagg Zag by either down climbing a bit and unclipping to reduce drag again, or merely skip it and prepare for a ride if the juice isn't there to make it through this endurance crux. All in all, a great newer route that needs to see more traffic, and could use another brushing or two. Thanks Jim Ewing for putting this up. Two stars for the complexity of the lead.

Climb the right facing flake for 20 feet to the first bolt then face moves lead to the anchors.

High first bolt, but a good jug to clip off of (albeit, a high foot, so a bit sketch; bring a stick clip if you must). I shoot out right to a side pull on Looney Toons; being only a few feet to the right, this doesn't seem off route, but makes Agro a bit of a squeeze job. Another couple moves brings you the other direction and back again to the crux: a big slanting pinch that you can barely fit both hands on; man-handle this a bit and go big with style to a crimp, or if you're a complete bamf, go further around right to the jug utilizing a poor sloper as an intermediate. Rest. Do some magic to the real bomber side pull rest, then get ready for the finger crack next to the last bolt (a good 30' below the anchor). If you can't finagle your fat paws into this tiny crack, do some more magic and high stepping to get into the next section of adventure climbing. Then begins the great unknown overgrown chossfest with hidden jugs (probably hard 10). If you're prepared, you've got a couple of small nuts (to match the big ones that have gotten you this far) and/or a #1 for a few choice placements to keep you safe, as well as some mithril to ward off the trolls and giant spiders that guard the anchors. Good luck; you're gonna need it.

An interesting jaunt up the flake/crack system. Usually done as a solo but can be gear protected.

Climb the beautiful arete on the backside of this  boulder from a sit start. Great tensiony moves! FA/SA 2004.

What do you call a fat lady jacked-up on Ginseng?  Fat Bastard!  This is just another link-up that is too classic not to be mentioned.  If Ginseng is not long, pumpy, or classic enough for you, keep going up and right from the Ginseng anchor to the top of Fat Lady via fun, exposed, pumpy climbing to enjoy one of the best lines on the cliff.

A fun adventure and a great second pitch to Summer Smoke or Kick to the Teeth.  From the slab above Summer Smoke and Kick to the Teeth, follow the flake and fun face holds to lower angle rock and the anchors. Link with either of the bottom pitches for a 100 foot pitch!

Begins from chain anchors on the left side of the "Brid's Perch" ledge. Thin climbing past 3 bolts lead to the huge roof above. Crazy campus moves out left lead to a cool stemming finish and the top of the cliff.

Fantastic, relentless, exposed face climbing up greenish rock to the top of the cliff!

Great climb! A little scarier than it is hard. Technical I think by Shagg standards. Climb the start of Great Escape, then instead of "escaping" to Great Escapes" anchors (hence the name) continue straight up then veer left through techy and exposed moves to the crux. Fun Climbing! The "ORIGINAL" line BTW.

 [NOTE: Name changed to "Shagg Zag" 5/27/20 to conform with original name and current guidebooks.  R Hall ME Admin. ]

This is an amazing bouldering problem located at the base of the ridge before the hike up from the pond to the Crag. Bushwack to the right before the hike up and you will find a white granite overhanging roof. Start on the corner where the roof meets the base of the wall, fire up to the overhanging arete, then to a small hold on the face of the overhang. From here slap and move into position to throw for the outer edge of the roof for a wild finish! FA/SA 2004.

This mini-route climbs up a left-facing flake just to the right of The Great Escape. There's not much routefinding or beta indecision here: just climb the flake to a two bolt anchor. The extension above the anchors is a cool-looking 13d called Diesel.

Start up ginsing then before crux head striaght up headwall to fist set of anchors. There is also a direct start that is harder and bumps up the grade a tiny bit to solid B. It is seldom if ever done.

What About Bob? (WAB) was bolted by Bob Parrot in '96/'97 and climbs the steep white section of rock to the right of Short Shagg, beginning in the thin band of quartzite-mixed rock that shoots straight up from the bouldery start. Cryptic and acrobatic (as described by Chris Cook), this route is hard to on-sight for 5.12 climbers. Tense climbing with a few possible sucker holds (depending on your height beta) lead to good jugs and a traverse to the right.  Face climb to a big ledge, breath, and prepare for the boulder problem that follows the seam up left, then face climbs to the finish anchors.  

  This original left variation has only seen 3 ascents-Jim Ewing, Luke Parady, and myself (mumbles of holds breaking and magic "foot dyno" beta are frequently heard when referencing this finish). Per Jim Ewing, Luke Parady thought it climbed like a 13a/b, but was probably only 12d. From my personal experience, I would put this upper crux sequence around V9 (or 13c overall). It has thwarted the likes of, yes, Dave Graham, as well as Josh Wharton. Does this mean I'm better than Dave Graham and Josh Wharton? Probably.  

  Note: If you unlock the crux sequence, the theme from Star Wars plays.  

If you came to the crag looking to tick 5.12, Shaggin Wagon is the route for you. This is not to say that the route is easy for the grade--far from it. Shaggin Wagon is all of 12a; however, success depends more on being tall than being strong. 

  The crux is at the bottom after which it's all about hanging on. If you are tall, the first move shouldn't be much of a problem. Expect a deadpoint to a pretty good hold.  If you are short...well, I'm tall, so your struggles are alien to me.  

  The difficulties continue up a cool undercling/layback feature. Good foot work is key. Pumpy edges follow to the anchors. I've heard people call this route 12c, though they were all pretty short.

The slabby, left-leaning corner immediately to the left of the popular “Unknown 5.8” is surprisingly fun, and it will clean up nicely with more traffic.  Begin by mantling up onto the shelf that marks the bottom of the crack.  Make a few delicate moves to gain the bottom of the crack/flake.  Climb this to end, then skirt around the bulge on its left, and finish up the broken, low-angle section of rock.  End at the chain anchor that marks the beginning of “The Ritual”. 

The first 30 or so feet of this climb is what it's all about. Steep reachy side pulls lead up and left to a cool knob. The crux requires some tricky foot intensive beta with the knob while reaching way out right to a big  rail, suck it in hold the swing and mantle it out.  Try to catch a breath and climb the second half, good thing it's probably easy 10 from here.

Climb Diesel, but rather than finishing at the 10 anchor climb right to the rest ledge of What About Bob and finish up the left leaning dihedral of of the original What About Bob.  Seeing as how Diesel climbs WAY better than it looks, it has always been marred only by its short length.  The original What About Bob finish, originally rated 12d????, lay unrepeated for years after only two assents by Jim Ewing and Luke Parady.  The cryptically hard sequence left many a hard man shaking their head as they lowered off completely stymied.  Finally unlocked over ten years later by Chris "The Deulenator" Deulen, the Bob finish appropriately caps Diesel with a feel through the upper dihedral reminiscent of perhaps the sierras more than Shagg and makes it totally full-value and way more rad.  Even with the rest ledge it adds considerable difficulty to Diesel and greatly solidifies the 13d grade. 

Start up great Escape then bust straight up and left out the proudest line of the cliff.

A tough link-up. Climbs the lower crux of What About Bob into the crux of Diesel.

Variation start to the Great Escape. Finger crack and stemming to the first bolt of Great Escape.

One of Shagg's easier offerings, the route offers a bit of face climbing, a mantle, and a small roof move.

Climb up through the right-trending flake crack to a big move to a jug. Sharp face holds lead to the chains.

The weird, water-smoothed face at the far right end of Shagg.

start up the first couple bolts of Two Shaved Heads then make a big iron cross left into a really cool traverse sequence. finish up with a couple bouldery moves and dead points. the holds aren't typical shagg, but thats what makes this route unique and deserves more travel.

WABC is the right variation to WAB after the ledge rest. Start out the same for WAB (the cheater way starts in the juggy side pulls to the left of the start and would probaly only merit a 12c rating accompanied by shaming from the locals). 

  This is the more common finish (bolted by Jim Ewing in '05/'06; Steve Dyer's nickname is apparently "bobcat") and moves into the start of the small dihedral and then exits right to another crux: moving back out to more face climbing with fun moves. (A knee bar is rumored to be used around here.) The chains are 2 bolts up. 

  WABC is probably the diamond in the rough of Shagg. The moves are exciting, fun, and nearly every section has 2 or 3 types of beta, all equally fun but suited to different styles. Right on par with Shagg It (though much different climbing). I'm surprised more people don't get on this thing, though with it's intimidating looking start and never-ending movement, it might not be hard to see why. That said, this route is freakin awesome! This will definitely be one I might find myself coming back to again and again. Top 3 best routes at Shagg in my opinion. 

Climb Fat pig but continue up the route past 1st set of anchors to the obvious finish at the top. If and or WHEN you whip before the anchors watch out for the tree................:).

Scramble up to the belay anchors of Ritual. Follow the crack and flake system past a few bolts up and right to the top of the cliff.

In my experience, granite rarely forms buckets and when it does form buckets, it's rarely steep. Shagg Crag has all three: steep, juggy, granite climbing. 

  Located about an hour away from North Conway, Shagg sees a fair amount of traffic, though it is still possible to have the crag by yourself on a sunny weekend. The crag gets afternoon sun and there is little to offer shade, so expect a warm climbing experience. This can be a great thing on sunny winter days, or a curse on sunny summer days. Get up early on warm days and climb until the wall comes into the sun. 

  Besides Waimea at Rumney, Shagg might be the most stacked cliff in all of New England. If you're looking for endurance-esque 5.12's, I can't think of a better crag. The guidebook lists twelve routes rated 5.12 and almost all of them are quality. Shaggin Wagon (12a), Ginseng Route (12c), Meltdown (12c/d), and Shagg It (12d), stand out as unique classics. If you're looking for routes of a more moderate grade, Shagg might offer enough for a day or so, and The Great Escape (10d) should not be missed.

Kayte on Shaggin Wagon

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in -Shagg Crag