Not a brilliant beast, but not the worst thing ever either.

You could make this pretty hard by starting on the Paradise Lost holds, and then thrutching through the start moves (that make a fun start to UJ), and then fire up onto the HOLLOW flake, and finishing up and right.

The newer guidebook description is not super helpful (sorry Dallas!) - it's not possible to distinguish this from "Shia Surprise", and you climb up and right from the start of UJ, not up and left.

The moves on this aren't bad, but the flake is for sure going to bust any moment, and it's pretty dirty and dabby.

Miami Girl

Unnecessary Judgement

Paradise Lost

Hypersexual Shark Bait

Really cool climbing on perfect black patina edges, and one long move characterize this problem.

There's a couple of places you could reasonably start this one. There's a cool sculpted pocket on the right, and the cool sculpted pockets on Paradise Lost. I think for full value, you should probably really get down in there and funk your way through a low start. I wouldn't start as high as the incut rail on the right, for instance. However, sigh, the hard part is basically getting to the lip, so it probably wouldn't be much easier to start a move higher.

Start all the way down in the cave on the jugs and work your way up some sharp incut crimps to a fun and easy topout.

A bit dirty, but it should clean up with some ascents.

Start sitting on decent edges, and work up left through horns and jugs, turn the lip and top out.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Paradise Lost Area